Harvest To Heat

Grass Fed Myth Buster

admin — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 13:00:50 +0000

“Grass-fed cows make the best burgers, period.” This is Ridgeway Shinn’s mantra. Ridge is on a mission to change the beliefs of American beefeaters to prove that grass-fed cattle produce a more flavorful meat than their grain-finished relatives and in the process are a boon to the environment. In his arsenal is the herd of Devon cattle that he shipped from New Zealand on two 747’s in 2008 and the pure science that he uses to make his point. The Devon cattle are the gentle giants of the farm that Ridge runs and they are also the machine used to reinvigorate leased land that has been ruined by over-farming, herbicides, and other chemicals. The Devons eat grass whose roots have pulled carbon from the air; they then fertilize the land that they have been living on and within 2 to 3 years the land has been revived. This is the kind of perfect balance that sustainable farmers are always looking for.

Ridge’s goal is to increase the quantity of half Devon cattle being raised by farmers and ranchers. His Bakewell Reproduction Services is the seed that he hopes will drive this goal. By developing herds of half Devon cattle all over the United States, the quality of grass-fed beef will increase rapidly. He says “My bull’s genes will push through, no matter the cow that it is bred with.” The other upside of his breeding plan is that these grass-fed beauties will be ready for in 18 months rather than the usual 24 to 30 months for other grass-fed breeds, saving from a extra winter’s worth of expensive alfalfa.

Working with everyone from David Shea of applewood Restaurant in Brooklyn, New York, to scientists at Clemson University and the Hardwick Beef Company, Ridge is getting the word out about his cattle and the advantages of raising an animal that helps the land and tastes great. Ridge loves to go to farmers’ dinners to tell consumers about the advantages of his grass-fed beef, including studies from Clemson University that showed his steaks rated as “choice” by USDA standards. He is also proud to explain how his filets won a Food Arts contest when put up against grain-finished beef from around the country. Ridge says “once consumers understand all the advantages of grass-fed beef, the only problem we’ll have is getting enough supply to them.” A good problem to have for any farmer.

The Useful Bits:

Hardwick Beef

Oyster Saves the Bay

admin — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 13:00:32 +0000

The long history of the Chesapeake Bay oyster was too strong a pull to keep cousins Ryan and Travis Croxton out of the business their great-great grandfather had started in 1899, when oyster “farming” was basically hunting and gathering the bivalves that were a natural part of the Bay. Oysters were a supplement to farming and were “free,” as land leases were yet to be implemented. The cousin’s fathers tried to discourage them from oyster farming as they watched their fleets of boats destroyed by multiple hurricanes and the Bay become “polluted” from over farming and lack of planning from local oystermen. The pollution of the Bay is different then we would think. “It’s not a point source pollution like a factory, but the runoff of nitrogen and phosphorous that would normally be processed by oysters,” says Ryan. And with the oyster population dwindling, this is “allowing other life to take over the Bay.” While the oyster population of Chesapeake Bay is about 4 percent of what it was in 1900, Ryan and Travis believe that through their style of aquaculture the Bay will not only become cleaner but also a better place to grow their oysters.

“The Chesapeake Bay is like the Napa Valley of oysters. The brackish waters vary from location to location and help create a wide variety of taste profiles from low-salinity Rappahannock River Oysters to brinier Olde Salts oysters from Chincoteague.” To keep the bay safe for boats, good looking for local residents, and most importantly, a constant food supply for their oysters, the Croxtons moved their business into “off bottom” farming. The oysters are grown in cages in the bay with only buoys to mark their location. The harvest consists of pulling the cages rather than dredging the bottom of the bay and killing much needed grasses that provide nutrients to the oysters.

The Croxton’s model of sustainable aquaculture and great-tasting oysters has led them to be a favorite of chefs like Tom Collichio of Craft and Eric Ripert of La Bernardin. “At first we couldn’t have been more ignorant about how to sell, price, and ship our product to these great chefs, but their help got us on track.” It also won the cousins a Food and Wine magazine award as one of its Best Young Taste Makers. Not bad for two guys told to stay out of the family business.

The Useful Bits:

Shuck Like a Pro